Exploring Kings Park and the Botanical Gardens

I'm not sure what I did to offend the parrot, indeed I didn't know it was possible to do so, but some basic bird morality must have been violated to make the bird repeatedly launch itself at my head as I walked to my hostel in Perth. Weighed down with all my backpacker gear, the most I could do was squawk a protest and scoot away as fast as possible. So, naturally, I was wary when I found more parrots (gallahs, specifically) at King's Park, grazing like pigeons under the sprawling trees. King's Park sits atop Mt Eliza overlooking Perth; 62m above sea-level qualifies as a mountain here. The park has 3 faces: the war memorials, the botanic gardens, and the aboriginal history; it was expansive, lovely, and best of all: free.

For every city in Australia there is an unique aboriginal culture; the myths, crafts, and ancient ceremonies of the local tribe are pushed fairly hard to tourists. I think of this as a form of repentance. Up until 1928 aboriginals were being hunted as animals, slaughtered for sport, convenience, or dog food; they had few civil rights and no respect for long after. Even today, they hold an "untouchable" status for many Aussies. So I don't resent the peddling much, and I thoroughly enjoyed visiting the old lookout points and meeting places of the Nyungar tribe.

The memorial aspect was also impressive. Aside from the dominating statues and rows of bronze placards listing names of those fallen in war, there were artistic tributes to law enforcement and living tributes in the form of dedicated trees lining Honor Ave. This may seem a bit excessive, but Australians have come close to extinction from losses in war. So, in times of peace, it is natural to hail the accomplishments of old without which they'd all be inbred. Got to tip your hat to that!

The botanic gardens were lush, diverse, and inventive. Giant boab trees contemplated the universe among cacti, agave (tequila!), and all manner of plants I'd never heard of but enjoyed gawking at. Most people come to the park for the wildflower gardens; when I found this section it was a ruin: full of spindly and twiggy bushes. Apparently, the flowers are due to burst into life about three weeks after I leave Perth...poor timing on my part. I am sure it will be magnificent when in full swing. Another draw was the water garden: an artificial river carves through the land, flowing over ledges and rocks in an artistic display. The centerpiece is a lake with timed fountains spraying 20 feet into the air around a statue of a mother and child. It was here that I lounged for a time beneath the trees, keeping an eye on the parrots.

Throughout my wanderings I had seen several plants more cared for than the rest with little signs explaining their significance. These were experimental plants! It turns out that King's Park is one of the world's leading centers of botanical research. Scientists breed new plant species, study their life cycle and generally perform highly important plant experiments. Most of the experimental plants can only grow in Australia; so the luscious gardens double as a laboratory.

Before I had come to Perth, all I had heard was that the city was extremely clean and so far away from the rest of the Aussie world that it might as well keep going. So my expectations were not high when I came here, but I was pleasantly surprised. Perth is not an amusement-park city like Sydney (busting at the seems with tourists and attractions), but rather a homey-city. It is the sort of place that Americans settle in to raise families: safe, beautiful, and friendly. The size and feel of the city reminded me of Denver, and so it was with a sense of "home" that I spent my time there.