Beijing, China - Day 5

Part of me longed for the western-style house while in China - you know: toilets in seat-style and not glorified holes in the ground, air-conditioning, comfy places to sit, tv...home. Leave it to the Chinese to do it better, though! Last night we relocated to Dorothy's Aunt's and Uncle's home outside Beijing. The suburbs are increasingly westernized in terms of architecture and this one was lovely: 4 stories, air-conditioned, gleaming hardwood floors, and a shower with 6 different ways to pelt you with water. It was paradise!


Dorothy's family once more offered a brand of hospitality I've never seen matched. They served us a gigantic breakfast that 10 people couldn't hope to finish and drove us to today's adventure: the Ming Tombs.


The Ming Tombs are extensive and spaced out, including 13 separate mausoleums of Ming dynasty emperors and empresses. We visited the Sacred Way and the Ding Ling museum. The Sacred Way is a path lined with towering willow trees and stone guardian animals. We passed, and climbed on, lions, camels, horses, goats, elephants, and dragon-creatures; you haven't climbed ancient artifacts until you've climbed these babies! My favorite dragon, the turtle dragon, oversaw the complex beneath an elaborate archway. As we neared the end of the path, human statues flanked us; they were the generals and councilors of old. They struck me as silent, thoughtful men and warriors who had meditated so long in the peaceful glade they'd turned to stone. I could see how they'd done it - it was easy to lose yourself in the sweeping path and the hum of the insects.

The Ding Ling museum holds an underground palace that is the resting place of emperor Zhu Yjun and his 2 empresses. Busy guy! We descended 6 stories into the earth to see the replicas of their thrones and coffins. The most vivid memory of that tomb is the dampness, the air was so water-heavy everything was covered in mist. The halls and floors were damp and cold, but largely reconstructed so not as engaging as the Sacred Way.


After the Ming Tombs, we all faced a dilemma. Both Dorothy's grandparents and aunt & uncle wanted to take us out for a meal. So we had two sizeable meals nearly back to back. The Chinese are happy if food is eaten, but tend to order so much that eating it all is impossible! No matter how we all tried, the food was largely undented by our bellies. By Chinese standards we're very rude. In this sense, I'm glad to be leaving because my stomach is starting to lose its nerve.

Since this is my last night, I think it's time for a literary montage of an amazing trip; please hum your favorite bitter-sweet rock ballad. I've sweated my weight in water, acquired a China tan and a temporary smoker's cough, eaten crazy foods, haggled, explored ancient temples and palaces, been photographed with more enthusiasm than ever in my life, ridden public transport in contortionist-sardine-like conditions, developed a love of all forms of green tea, had my personal space violated unknowingly but constantly, and finally fulfilled a childhood dream of seeing China. It's been magical and nerve-racking and I can't wait to do it again!