Thursday, July 10, 2008

Surf's Up!


I learned to surf today! The locals think I'm crazy for doing it in the middle of winter, but no time like the present especially considering the land-locked nature of Colorado. It was the first rain-less day in a week and, dammit, I needed an adventure! So I toddled down to the surf shack and they set me up with a lesson complete with damp wet-suit (which felt like trying to pull a recently-slaughtered lizard's skin over my body...delicious!). First lesson of the day: no one looks or feels pretty in a wet suit.

There were 6 other people in the class with me: 3 oblivious Swedes, 1 Japanese man who spoke no English and lacked a personal space paradigm, 1 10 year-old New Zealander who befriended me, and 1 short, blond man who never spoke a word. We each were given surf boards (mine looked about twice my height) and told to follow our instructor down to the beach like baby ducks. Before even looking at the ocean we all sat in the sand and learned about the basics: the swim flags, the rip currents, and shark wrestling. Armed with anti-shark water-judo we set out to catch our first waves.

I don't know how many of you knew this about me, but I'm rather terrified of the ocean. Why? Oh, something about being in the control of a mindless, powerful force that houses sharks and rip currents never sounded fun to me. I've practically hyperventilated in the shallows before, turning every rolling wall into a demon in my mind. But, honestly, all the gut-wrenching irrational fear lasted about as long as it took me to catch my first wave; then it all evaporated in a gleeful "WEEEEE!" Any activity that offers so many opportunities to giggle at high velocity is alright by me! After that, every pummeling wave left me laughing even as the salt coated my lungs and stung my eyes.

After two hours of being dunked and tossed around I finally stood up on the board! It wasn't pretty or masterful in any way, but I think it is undeniable that I was vertical. Afterwards, they showed us a slide show of pictures we could buy which somehow captured the milliseconds where I appeared competent. It's funny how fast shutter speeds and a slide show set to a Chemical Brothers song can turn amateur fumblings into something kickass...but there wasn't anyone bitter enough to share in my amusement.

The day left me feeling like a walking bruise! I have sand-burns on my leg, everything tastes of salt, and I can't even sit for all the new bruises...but I can't wait to get out there again!

No comments: